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Table of Contents:

Below is the Table of Contents from The Coverlet Book.

You may view a formatted version of the Table of Contents in PDF format here.


Volume One

Acknowledgements iv

Introduction xiii

Notes to the Reader xxv

Overshot 1-508

Overshot Overview 1-29

“Typical” coverlet 1

Patterns 2-3

Monk’s Belt version 3

Origin? 3-4

Quantity 4

Dating 4, 15

Pattern names 4-7

Drafts, early 6-7

Characteristics 8

Yarns 8-11

Weight of a coverlet 10-11

Color and dyes 11-15

Patterning 15-16

Size of a coverlet 16

Panels 2, 3, 16-18

Selvedges 18

Borders 18-19, 20-23

Squaring 19-20

Pattern size and proportion 19-20

Joining Panels 18, 20

Finishing warp ends 20

Fringes 23-26

Quality, perfection 26-27

Aesthetics 27-29

Conclusion of overview 29

Monk’s Belt 30-37

Basic characteristics 31

Blocks, introduction 31-32, 33

Opposites 32

Tabby - defined 32

Tabby - determining 32, 35

Yarns 32

Treadling 32

Early draft interpretations 33-37

Threading 34

Treadling 34

As-drawn-in 35

Early ways vs. today’s 35-36

Doublers 36-37

Stroke drafts 36-37

Overshot: 4 blocks, 4 harnesses 38-92

Theory and structure 39

Half-tones 39

Block orders possible 39

With adjacent blocks 40

Theory and structure 40-42

On-opposites 42-44

Theory and structure 44

Opposites, area(s) of 44-46

Early drafts 46-64

Types and how to interpret 46-54

Very Specific 47

Specific 48

Paired Numbers 49

Stroke-type 50

Notation variations 51

General information 51-53

Tie-ups 53-54

Treadling

As-drawn-in 54

“Squaring” a pattern 54-56

Rose fashion 57-58

Variations 59-64

Other Characteristics 64-115

Tabby 64-71

Plain Weave 65

Double Tabby 66-71

Variations 71

Doublers, split and unsplit 72-81

Symmetry 82-88

Broad-narrow 82-88

Perfection 82-88

Errors 88-92

On early drafts 88-90

Interpretations 90, 92

Is It Old? 93-115

“Transitional” period 94-96

Contemporary weavers/weaving 94, 96

“Is It Old” Gallery with comments 97-115

Multi-Harness Overshot 116-143

Introduction 117

Variety of structures 117-119

Gallery with technical explanations 119-143

Overshot Gallery 144-458

Introduction 145

Pattern Groups

Monks Belt, 2 blocks 146-155, 156

Monks Belt-like, 4 blocks 156-159

Blocky 160-180

Both motifs the same 180-189

Two simple motifs 190-197

Directional 198-205

Stairstep separators 206-208

“Star-tables” 208-223

Motifs with shared blocks 224-230

Unusual as-drawn-in treadling 231

Diamonds 232-241

Simple tables and crosses 242-247

Simple tables and diamonds 247-260

Table and simple cross, evolving 261-270

Pine Burr types 271-280

Pine Burr-like 281-284

4 blocks on opposites 285-286

Simple and fancy tables 287-299

Evolving 300-307

Tables/radiating motif 308-321

Leaves 322-344

Rose/star clusters and table 345-367

Variations 368-383

Chariot Wheels 384-412

Circle Patterns 413-458

Dated Overshot Coverlets 459-497

Introduction 461

Gallery of coverlets in

chronological order 462-486

Cross-stitched date 487

Letters woven in/variations 488-489

How dates were woven 489-492, 477

Concluding notes 492-497

Photos of dates 494-495

Contemporary interpretations 496-497

Overshot endnotes and credits 498-508


Volume Two

Twill II 1-154

Introduction II 1-2

Straight Twill II 2-10

Four harness basics II 2-3

Gallery II 4-10

Point Twill and “Herring Bone” II 10

Four harness basics II 10

Gallery II 11-14

Extended Point Twill II 15

Four harness basics II 15

Gallery II 15-19

Broken Twill II 20

Gallery II 20-21

Multi-harness Point Twill

Basics II 22-27 (33, 37)

Gallery II 28-38

Patterns from early draft books II 38-55

Variations in tie-ups

on Fancy Twills II 56

Basics II 56

Gallery II 57-59

Patterns from early draft books II 60-68

Fancy tie-ups creating stars, etc. II 69-88

Turned Twill-like tie-ups II 88-95

Brocade-like patterns II 96-109

Extended Point Twill, multi-harness II 110-114

Broken, multi-harness Twill II 115

Twills in blocks

2 block, 10 harness II 116-121

Point Twill in blocks, fancy

2 block, 12-20 harnesses II 122-139

3 block, 12 harnesses II 140-141

3 block, 10 harnesses II 142-142, 146-151

3 block, 16 harnesses II 144-145

Transition to Turned Twill II 152

Twill Endnotes and credits II 153


Turned Twill, Turned Satin, Combination Weaves II 155-218

Introduction II 157

Overview II 157-160

Turned Twill

Theory, structure and variations II 161-163

Early drafts II 164

Structure variations II 164-168

Diaper Coverlets vs. Damask Diaper

Early terms and ways II 168-169

Turned Satin

Structure II 170-172

Combination Weaves

Turned Twill and Turned Satin plus

Point Twills II 173-177

Gallery

Turned Twill Coverlets II 178-192, 194-205

Turned Satin II 193

Combination Weaves II 206-209

Drawdowns of early patterns II 210-217

Chapter endnotes and credits II 218

Double Weave II 219-322

Structure, simplified II 221-225

Historical context II 225-226

Overview II 225-232

Number of blocks used II 226

Plain Weave ground II 226-227

Patterning II 227-229

Yarns II 229

Borders, fringes and seams II 229-230

Combining blocks II 229, 234

“Squaring” a pattern II 230

Sett, pattern repeats, panels II 230

Errors? II 230-232

Structure in Detail II 232-234

Early draft books II 234-235

Early drafts, interpreted II 235-237

Errors, doublers and tie-ups II 237-240

Gallery II 241-322

Introduction II 241

Four and five blocks, no combining II 242-263

Four blocks, combining II 264-267

Five blocks, combining II 268-270

Checkerboard-with-dots patterns II 271-274

Snowball patterns II 275-303

Blossom patterns II 304-309

“Framed” patterns II 310-319

Double Weave endnotes and credits II 321-322

Just Patterns or Orphaned Patterns meant to be woven in Double Weave, Turned Twill or Turned Satin II 323-350

Introduction II 325

Early sources used II 325

Inspiration? II 325-326

Patterns, Patterns, Patterns II 326-349

From checkerboards II 326-328

From diamonds II 329-331

Columnar patterns II 332-334

Intricately combined patterns II 334-335

Framed patterns II 336-341, 348-349

Bold and contemporary looking II 342-344

Unusualities II 344-347

From sketch to drawdown

John Landis’ method II 347-349

Just Patterns endnotes and credits II 350

Summer and Winter II 351-403

Brief description II 353

Comparison to other weaves II 353

Name origin II 354-355

Early Draft II 355

Overview of the coverlets II 355

Number of blocks II 355

Combining blocks II 355-356

Stereotypical coverlet II 356

The coverlets

Yarns and Patterining II 356

Quantity woven II 357

Borders and fringes II 357

Errors II 357

Old vs new and

“Rules” and appearance II 357-358

Background appearance II 358

Units and half-units II 358

History speculation II 358

Structure in detail II 360

Background area, floats & ties II 360

Compared to Overshot II 360-361

Tie-downs or binders II 361

Floats II 361

Number of harnesses needed II 361

20th century version II 362

Units and half-units II 362

Early drafts II 363

Determining tie-up and treadles II 363-364

Looms used ? II 364

Number of blocks used II 364-365

Did blocks combine? II 364-365, II 397-401

Tie-ups and treadles II 364-365

Interpreting drafts II 365-368

Treadling II 367-368

Contemporary treadling variations II 368-370

Summary II 370-371

Summer and Winter Gallery

Introduction II 371

Coverlets II 372-401

Diamond patterns II 372-373

Enlarged star or fancy table and star pattern II 374-386

Wheel patterns II 386-392

Wheel variations,

“Rose in Bloom” II 392-396

With combined blocks II 397-401

Summer and Winter endnotes and credits II 402-403

Star and Diamond II 405-482

Introduction II 407

Overview of

Structure and patterns II 407-409

Coverlet details,

Blocks, yarns, sett, etc. II 409-412

The variety of structures II 412-413

Two approaches to drafting II 413-416

Tie-downs explained II 414-415

Combining blocks II 416

Structures and variations II 416-426

Commonalities II 417

Tied structures II 417-424

I. Odd number of ends per block II 417-419

II. With brocade-like areas II 419-421

III. Combining structures II 421

IV. Even number of ends per block II 421-422

V. Tied variation II 422-423

VI. “Borrowed” tie downs II 423-424

Other Structures II 424-426

VII. Discrete blocks, no overlapping II 424-425

VIII. Discrete blocks, staggered edges II 425-426

Conclusion II 426

Gallery Prologue II 426-434

Peter Stauffer, early weaver

His coverlets, sampler and pattern book compared II 428-434

Star and Diamond Gallery II 434-481

Group I II 434-452

Group II II 453-459

Group III II 460-462

Group IV II 463-465

Group V II 466-469

Group VI II 470-473

Group VII II 474-477

Group VIII II 478-481

Conclusion II 481

Star and Diamond endnotes and credits II 482

Miscellaneous: Ribbed, Weft-faced and Honeycomb-like Coverlets II 483-517

Introduction: Strange bedfellows II 485

Ribbed coverlets II 485-496

Structure II 486-487, 491, 492, 495

Gallery II 488-496

Type I II 488-494

Type II II 494-496

Boundweave or

Weft-faced Plain Weave II 497-507

Structure II 497-499

Early reference II 497

Coverlet characteristics II 499

How to read these drawdowns II 499

Gallery II 500-507

Honeycomb II 508-516

Defined II 508

Characteristics II 508

Early drafts II 508-511

Structure II 509-511

“Dimity” II 509-511

Gallery II 512-516

Four and eight harness honeycomb

Miscellaneous endnotes and credits II 517

Motifs II 519-538

Introduction II 521-523

Number of motifs for a pattern II 521

Structures II 522-523

How to read the Motif Charts II 523

The Charts II 524-537

01. Separators II 524

02. Even checkerboards II 524

03. Uneven checkerboards II 524

04. Simple tables, 2 block, even II 525

05. Simple tables, 2 block, uneven II 525

06. Fancy tables, 2, 3, 4, blocks II 526

07. Crosses II 526

08. Crosses Plus II 527

09. Diamonds II 527

10. Diamonds, blocks combine II 527

11. Radiating II 528

12. Radiating, Leaves II 529

13. Stars and their Roses II 530

14. Star-like motifs II 530

15. Simple motifs, blocks combine II 531

16. Wheels from crosses II 532

17. Wheels/ Star or Rose center II 533

18. Snowballs II 534

19. Fancy Snowballs II 534

20. Fancier Snowballs II 535

21. Eight-pointed stars II 535

22. Eight pointed stars/brocade-like II 536

23. Eight-pointed stars from Star and Diamond patterns II 536

24. Flowers from Star and Diamond patterns II 537

Motifs endnotes and credits II 538

Trees and Churches II 539-558

Overview

Trees on coverlets II 541

Crossed pine trees II 541-542

Weave structures used II 543-544

On borders and more II 544

Columnar patterns II 544

Churches II 545

Upright and side trees

Treadling described II 545-546

From one motif, a variety of trees II 547-554

Snowballs II 547-550

Roses II 550-551

Roses and Snowballs II 551

Tiny Diamonds II 552

Crosses II 552-553

Blossom-like motifs II 553

Eight-pointed stars II 554

Miscellaneous II 554

Churches

From early draft books II 555-556

Trees and Churches endnotes and credits II 557-558

Evolution of Patterning II 559-594

Origins of the theory II 561

A flight of fancy

Two block Overshot to four II 561-564

Evolution of structure II 563-564

Keeping the old with the new II 564

Four block Overshot and how it grows

Blocky patterns/ opposite and adjacent blocks II 565-566

Checkerboards to Stars II 566

Stars to Roses II 567

Patterns grow II 567-568

Star-tables II 568-569

Checkerboards to simple tables II 569

Getting fancier II 570

And fancier II 571

Simple tables, stars or roses, and separator II 572-574

Stars to Chariot Wheels II 574-576

Other Chariot Wheels II 577

Simple tables and cross

One branch II 578

Another branch II 579

To a Pine Burr variation II 580-581

A grand circle route II 581-584

Missing link II 581-582

And another route, cross emphasis II 584-588

Radiating II 585-586

Leaves II 586-588

Directional patterns II 588

Patterns when blocks combine II 588-592

Very simple crosses evolve II 588-589

From a rose to a fancy snowball II 590-592

Conclusion

Pattern Evolution: by choice or chance? II 592-593

Epilogue

How does an art grow? II 593

Evolution of Patterning endnotes and credits II 594

An Annotated Bibliography: Early pattern books and early drafts II 595-615

Overview of source material used II 597-598

Books used for this study II 599-610

(shown in chronological order)

Draft collections used II 610-614

Annotated Bibliography endnotes and credits II 615

Bibliography II 616